Tuesday, October 21, 2008

The mushroom hunt


Every fall, thousands of people go out to the woods near their homes and apartment buildings and search for mushrooms. Autumn mushroom hunting is regarded as a classic Ukrainian tradition, accompanied by debates about the best variety, the best areas to search, the best methods to prepare mushrooms, and the best drinks to consume while eating mushrooms (beer and vodka, not surprisingly). I had a rare Sunday with nothing to do and was so was pleased when my friend Anatoliy called up and asked if I wanted to go to the woods outside of Kyiv for some mushroom picking. You don't need to go far outside of Kyiv to find suitable forests for mushroom picking, although the closer to Kyiv you are, the more likely it is the best mushroom spots have been picked over many times by early-rising baboosyas and didoosyas. As it is, I am not an early riser on Sunday morning, so Anatoliy and his friend Andrey and I did not start our search until well past noon. Andrey knew that most of the spots close to the village were no good, having already been examined, so we ventured further into the forest where we passed fewer people. After just a few lessons, one can pretty much understand which mushrooms are dangerous and which are edible, and which are the most prized. Ukrainian forests are filled with a variety of good and bad (check out this poisonous toadstool!!)

mushrooms, all of which have different names and specific histories. Ukrainians love the outdoors, despite the fact that too many people still leave all their trash in the places where they just enjoyed the outdoors. The mushroom hunt is yet another fabled part of the Ukrainian love of the forest and fields, and after a few minutes, one can see why. An October day with beautiful weather, fresh (er) air, and seeing only a few people at once (as opposed to the thousands on the street) furthers the relaxing feel of the forest. Plus, drinking a few beers while walking also helps.
Andrey had to leave us after half an hour to take care of some family errands, so Anatoliy and I continued on together deeper into the forest into some beautiful places. We were further away from people and thus able to locate more mushrooms. We began to venture back, hunting along the way, when I found the biggest prize of the day, a "white" mushroom, resting next to a tree. As Anatoliy told me, this is the most prized mushroom in the Ukrainian forest due to its size and thick flesh. It cooks well, especially for shashlyk. Although I only found one, Anatoliy's prediction came true; it was the tastiest mushroom of the bunch when I cooked the batch the next evening as instructed: some oil, a little onion, salt, pepper, a little garlic, and add sour cream just before serving. Delicious!

Friday, October 10, 2008

A shout-out to my homies

I was in Kharkiv for a two-day work trip, which was enough time for me to familiarize myself again with the city center. I was in Kharkiv seven years ago visiting the old Peace Corps gang here, but didnt remember much except for the huge Soviet-style square in the city center. A statue of Lenin still stands...ah, Lenin...you once initiated the most important events in the 20th century...now 12-year old kids in go-karts zoom around in front of you.

I love this time of year back home and here, so I look forward to these trips that always happen in October. After finishing up the days work, I went to the large park in the city center to relax for a while before I grabbed dinner. I went back to a lovely area at the back of the park where there are two levels of fountains, looking out on a view of the city. The sun was setting, I was enjoying the cool autumn air, a slightly warm beer, and the lovely view of the sunset above the urban landscape of Kharkiv. I switched my music to Joy Division, which I find one of the most appropriate groups to listen to for an urban landscape. The music oozes with an industrial, robotic, somewhat tinny, character that comes straight out of Manchester, England. So there I was looking at the sunset and watching a few couples make-up (this still cracks me up) when I took closer notice to the guy next to me, who was drinking a beer and smoking a cigarrette. He had a beard, which is somewhat rare here, and a nice briefcase. He looked to be about my age and seemed also to enjoy the view. A few minutes later, a bird flew up above us and by us, and the bearded man lifted up his beer, gestured toward the sky/bird, and poured out the last remaining part of the beer. He left the bottle on the ledge, turned around, and walked away. A very beautiful and unique moment. A daily memorial to a dead loved one? A shout out to his homies? Whatever it is, it made my evening.